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Morning mist on Cerro Rosado, Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, Argentina

Parque Nacional los Glaciares, in southern Argentina, offers some of the world's most superb tramping. Each year thousands of visitors flock to this national park, which comprises almost 6000 square kilometres of forested mountains, sheer granitic spires and immense glaciers and lakes. The most popular entry point for most visitors is the tiny village of El Chaltén, set on the edge of the park amid the magnificent surroundings of the Fitzroy Massif. From here there are many options for multi-day tramps to savour the best the park has to offer, and trampers can reach some of the most spectacular mountain landscapes within just a day's walk.

I visited this area with a friend in March 2002, spending a few days in this park to explore some of the dramatic glacial lakes and valleys below the dominating forms of sheer granite peaks such as the famous Monte Fitz Roy, Cerro Poincenot and Cerro Torre. Cerro Rosado, an eroded granitic dome, rises to a modest height of 834 metres directly above El Chaltén; one of several trails leading out of the village leads along its lower slopes with expansive views over the Río de las Vueltas, and, after about an hour, over the jagged peaks of the Fitzroy group.

After a night of heavy rain at El Chaltén, we were greeted with clear blue skies and a dense fog filling the valley of Río de las Vueltas, making for a cheerful start to our trip into the park. We climbed above El Chaltén and onto the lower slopes of Cerro Rosado, and gradually felt warm sunlight filtering through as we approached the top of the fog layer. Cresting a low ridge, I looked back to see Cerro Rosado rising out of the fog above us, and took this rather ethereal photograph shortly before the fog dissolved away completely.


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Winter sunrise reflection of Mt Taranaki

Mt Taranaki from Pouakai Range

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Mt Ngauruhoe at sunset

Mt Taranaki from Pouakai Range

Star trails over Mt Taranaki

Winter sunrise, MacKenzie Basin

Ben Ohau Range, Canterbury

Cerro Rosado, Argentina

Frozen lake, Mackenzie Basin

Rangipo Desert, central North Island